Lovely, old city with too many vowels in its name – from now it’s GDL. It’s well-known that GDL is one of the safest cities in Mexico and we were told the only reason for that is that the boss of one of the biggest cartels has the family residence around these parts… A case of not defecating on your own doorstep even if that means plenty of poo everywhere else. In addition, the only reason that the place looks fairly neat and tidy with rubbish bins on every street corner was the recent PanAmerican Games held here, a temporary blip in the normal run of things that made me think of home and the coming Olympics… All in all, it’s a very relaxed and friendly place – by night we parked up near the compact centre of town within range of the free GDL wi-fi – by day we found a spot on a busy road not far away where we met one of GDL’s graffiti aficionados. Cue a spot of spray decoration on the yellow side of Jigsaw – the first of a series of graffs from everywhere before us, a kaleidoscopic art mural, representing the nations of the world on a van that has driven through them… that’s the idea anyway – stay tuned on that…